Batmini
168 posts
Joined: 11/03/2007 10:47:54
Location: Kidderminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rear shock mounting
Hi guys
Like an idiot i left all the nuts and washers on my radius arms when i recently exchanged them for refurbed ones.
Does anyone know what size the washers and nuts are that mount the shocks onto the radius arms ?
Once i get the size, i'll be able to sit the car back on it's wheels.
Posted: Oct 21, 2008 10:18 PM
taffy1967
1783 posts
Joined: 27/09/2006 18:58:07
Location: Rhondda-Cynon-Taff United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Re: Rear shock mounting
Have a look on the Somerford Minis site: -
http://www.somerford-mini.co.uk/pdfs/Catalogues/Run-Gear-Subframes/07-RearSuspension-RubberCone.pdf
The price list normally tells you the part sizes: -
http://www.somerford-mini.co.uk/pdfs/Catalogues/Price-List-Order/01-Catalogue-Price-List.pdf
Posted: Oct 22, 2008 04:30 PM
RE: Rear shock mounting
Nut nyloc is 3/8 UNF?
Posted: Oct 22, 2008 04:34 PM
rear shock mounting
Thanks Taff.
Yeah it is 3/8. Just made myself some nice stainless washers to go either side of the shock as well. Just need a break in this weather to fit the damn things now.
Dear santa please bring me a nice big and warm workshop for christmas !!
Posted: Oct 26, 2008 03:31 PM
Richard
15 posts
Joined: 29/10/2004 15:31:39
Location: Grantham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Creaking on full lock
Any advice on this one would be greatly appreciated as I have got a creaking sound coming from the front on partial and full lock. I have replaced all the bushes,wheel bearings and drivers side cv joint to no avail the only thing I haven`t changed yet is the top arm bearings on both sides and the shock absorbers for the lowered variety. The subframe has solid mounts and the car has been lowered slightly.The noise is driving me nuts. Any help would be greatly recieved.
Posted: Apr 25, 2005 07:31 PM
fids
Joined: 12/05/2005 07:42:05
Location: Hereford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Awd?
I have seen a mini once where the a series engine had been turned sideways and fitted in the rear of the car,then two sierra diffs have been mounted one in the front subfame and a beam axle conversion with spring over shock in the rear with the other diff mounted on a half rear subframe. The drivshafts were then converted as propshafts.Very simple looking set up when done.
Posted: Nov 17, 2007 11:21 PM
J. Clarke
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Rust in my Boot
mot doesnt work like that, all metal 30cm away in 3d from any mount or structural member (eg sills, subframes) has to be sound. so that includes most of the car they have become stricter over last few years. if u imagine a ball 2 foot across at each subframe mount, and each seat belt mount each shock mount and long 2 foot wide tube covering sills, then body must not have any sharp edges. dont use filler near any structural member apart from to hide welds. make sure u spray waxoil or silular in sills and in valence each when reconstusting members to prevent future rust, that phosphoric acid u used to treat rust will help, dont pay alot for it tho its its just acid, swafega go 5litre bottle cheap not a gel so isnt as easy to use but is alot cheaper so has its uses, eshally for leaving components it it over night, works with alunium too.
Posted: Jun 13, 2008 01:59 PM
Crashnburn1981
158 posts
Joined: 04/12/2004 16:50:02
Location: glastonbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
rear subframe again
Hi all, After all my woes with my rear subframe everything is now starting to take shape, on of my concers is that since the panel where the front of the rear subframe bolts up, has been beaten about a bit, will the rear subframe bolt up in the wrong position, all of the other mounting holes have stayed the same, ie the floor mounts and shock absorber mounts, so can i fit the subframe up to these holes and then use packing pieces where the subframe may not quite meet the panel, and how do i check if the subframe is lined up correctly, Cheers Nick
Posted: Feb 27, 2006 11:12 PM
Mini Special
16 posts
Joined: 09/09/2005 18:16:43
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
shocks
wot do you meen by stiffer you can get agustables where you can alter the hardness of your ride it just depends how much you want to spend i shouldnt think they make much difference to the comfort of your ride or handling . as for the rear shocks you will have to remove the fuel tank(s) then inside the boot there is a locknut at the top of the wheel arch which is the top bolt and the lower mount is on the radius arm before taking the radius arm bolt out, support the arm with some bricks or sumthin to stop it droppin then just withdraw it fom under the car. cal
Posted: Mar 26, 2006 06:29 PM
GuessWorks
14 posts
Joined: 13/09/2004 13:02:00
Location: Rugby United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
flip front
Get a copy of MiniWorld KYMA 3, it has all the details in there... You will need, Brace bars, solid subframe mounts, some fasteners and something to cut the front off with.. The brace bars connect to what remains of the inner wing above the upper shock mount. Brace Bar position shown by Green stripe....
Posted: Nov 18, 2004 10:40 AM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
whole front panel
they are a pain to change as you have to drop the subframe a few inches to get them in which means undoing the track rod ends at the steering arms, undoing the intermediate exhaust hanger, the remote gearchange release mountsthe upper engine mount, speedo cable, fuel input line and both brake and clutch hydraulic lines at the bulkhead. the carb may have to come off as well to clear the bulkhead. Engine earth strap right inner wing, shock absorber top mounts and all the lower subframe mounts. You may need to remove the windscreen wiper motor as well to get to the left hand tower bolts. Personally I am surprised that the tower mount rubber gives this much looseness in the positioning but without the benefit of seeing them first hand the call is yours. I am going to differ from Tim on the choice of subframe mounts. Having fitted solid alloy front subframe mounts I can tell you that they much improve the handling. yes you do get more vibration but if you aren't doing lits of motorway work then most mini driver expect to live with a lot of noise. If you have a Mk3 bodyshell onwards then stick with the standard rubber rear subframe mounts as they stop the heelboard being turned into a one man jamaican steel band. On my Mk2 I have no rubber spacer - it is metal on metal as per the factory and this works well. you could try simply bolting your tower up tighter and changing the front subframe mounts. If that doesn't work then you know you have to drop the subbie.
Posted: Apr 22, 2013 09:51 AM
Hump3
4 posts
Joined: 22/10/2007 21:27:33
Location: Lytchett Matravers United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Coilover problems
My 1990 RSP cooper had Spax coilovers when i bought it. Although the ride height was level upon closer inspection one of the spring platforms was adjusted about an inch higher up! this meant that this spring was becoming coil bound over bigger bumps with a nasty bump! I removed the springs which were apparently 225lb/6inch and found that one was a little shorter. Assuming the springs to be at falt i have replaced them with 2 new 190lb/7inch springs so that i can keep the coils further apart and use the upper mounting holes in the mounts. this wold mean the coils are less likely to become coil bound over bumps (also i felt the front was too hard for me with 225lb springs) Anyhow it still wont sit level with the spring platforms level, to get it level i have to adjust the drivers side platform up signifigantly, and it look more like its just preloading the spring more than raising the car up! i dont understand whats going on!! i know the spax coilovers use krypton gas, my question is what kind of pressure is it at and would it provide and additional spring rate to the whole unit? (this was the case on my spax shocks on over cars. if so do you think a shock that has lost all of its gas would cause the problems im having?
Posted: Mar 20, 2008 01:33 PM
Vince
68 posts
Joined: 31/01/2005 17:24:31
Location: Seneca United States
Good Luck...
It IS fun driving a mini over here. What has amazed me, however, is how many people come up to me and tell me about their previously owned minis! It seems to happen about once a week. Someone will come up and ask me the usual questions; what year, which engine, is it standard, etc - then they start talking about the 60 something Cooper S they brought over thirty years ago. Its really cool that so many people over here have personal experience with this car. Anyhow, Im slowly turning mine into an autocross machine. Later this week Im fitting lowered Gaz shocks, adjustable bottoms arm/tie rods, HiLos, springs (racing green), rear camber plates, and front solid subframe mounts. Itll take some of the comfort out of the ride, but it should be more than worth it this upcoming weekend when the times get posted! Got one guy in a Triumph GT6 Im particularly interested in beating! This could make the difference... 50 or 60 euros is comparatively expensive, but its still not that bad. Its a good investment - although, it may be getting near the point where the cost of a new uprated radiator would be worth considering. My dream rad is one or the Rad Tech alloy jobs. Theyre expensive, but everyone whos installed one raves about how great they are. Enjoy some good chocolate while youre in Belgium! I hope my girlfriend and I are going to make it over there next year. Vince
Posted: Jun 27, 2005 05:33 PM
Chris_G
39 posts
Joined: 30/12/2004 09:27:39
Location: Milton Keynes United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Honda engine
Popular Honda engine would be the B16a, such as youd find in a CRX, or an EG Civic. You could also use a B18 out of an Integra type R as these use the same mounting points. The engine doesnt really fit into a Mini as such. You need to buy a modified subframe, basically chop the front end off the car and fit a fibre glass front end which is extended by several inches. The conversion is very expensive, and in my opinion just not worth it considering how the car looks afterwards (lets face it, a nose job should never be to make the nose bigger) If you want a more subtle conversion, then you can get a subframe kit for around 2 grand which will allow you to fit a small block 8v Vauxhall engine without having to change the shape of the front of the car. These engines were most commonly found in the Nova and range from the 1.2 to the 1.6 and come with carburettors or fuel injected on later series engines. The best of these is probably the 1400. Id compliment this with a 1300 cylinder head (much better flowing than the standard 1400 which is rubbish), match it to an inlet manifold and fit twin 40 DCOE or delorto carbs. Then go for a racey cam and arp strengthened bottom end with arp rod bolts. You could easily see ~130bhp from that with a comparable torque figure. Which would be more than enough to propel a Mini around at shocking speeds. And its more in keeping with the style of a Mini.
Posted: Aug 17, 2005 11:05 AM
Squid Vicious
1 posts
Joined: 09/01/2005 18:22:35
Subframe mounts
Posted: Jan 09, 2005 06:59 PM
Pickup
3 posts
Joined: 26/04/2005 12:15:05
Location: Basildon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fitting a Beam Axle
I am considering on fitting a rear beam axle to my Mini Pickup and ahve a question if any one can help. Q- I have been told by a body restoraion firm that there is a possibility that due to the stress on the shock mounts the inner wings can come away from the body, so a brace is required between the two. Is this correct? I have also been told that on the saloon it is not a problem as the rear archs are stiffened by the rear seat. Additionally if i do go the route of fitting it are the mounting points on the rear board strong enough to last? Thanks in advance If any can assist me regards Ian
Posted: Apr 26, 2005 12:39 PM
Georges mini
Joined: 16/06/2006 16:47:40
Location: oldham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
FLIP FRONT ENGINE BARS ANYONE KNOW?
Yes you need them for the MOT,they are supposed to put the strength back into the front end once you have cut the front off , all you have to do is bolt them on to the front subframe and the top of the bars go just above your shock mounting either weld them on or bolt them on , you could also blank the top of them off to stop water and all kind of things getting in them.
They supply them on here at reasonable price,this is where i got mine from.
Posted: Dec 02, 2007 05:15 PM
anthony covington
Joined: 05/10/2004 13:17:42
Location: bromley United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
for sale mini 1275gt 1970 TAX EXEMPT CAR
hi i have a 1970 tax exempt 1275gt clubman in old english white and black roof for sale restored new parts as follows spax ajustable shocks all round hi lo ajusters all round 1330 engine hif44 1.5 roller rockers brand new sc gearbox 12" ultra lite s with brand new tyres , 12 discs neg camber arms new subframe mounts 3 clock dash wodden with clock battery oil cd player original 1970 interior in black unmarked , new carpet s also black with cream center bucket seats with no head rests , race harnesses 1960s itailan job rear roll cage , monza filler cap , big petrol tank wheel arches , new rc40 and lcb manifold has had 2 mots , but has no current one i have no time to get it done , needs a tune up and small finishing jobs call 07732290351 more info and any questions , the car is in kent , thanks
Posted: Jan 03, 2009 04:46 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Beam axle & Gaz Coil shox conversion
Looking at your pictures, I would say that you have mounted the shock absorbers the correct way round, with the larger flange away from the backplate - I suspect you would have clearance issues with the spring rubbing against the inner wheelarch if you tried them the other way, and that must be why they're offset like that.
I don't think it matters which way the adjuster is pointing - I suspect they will be pointing different directions on each side anyway.
Posted: Aug 31, 2011 08:48 AM
raise a lowered 850!
Unless they have fitted an adjustable suspension kit that can be wound back up to the normal ride height then the usual cheap way to lower a mini was to trim the "trumpets" where the knuckle end fits. If these have been shortened then you'll need new trumpets. Also the original rubber cones can compress over time so you lose height there. The other place that can have an impact is the nylon insert in the rear swinging arm and front upper wishbone as these tend to punch through over time and you lose more height.
Regarding the shocks, you need to compare the distance between the top and bottom mounting pins in both the fully compressed and unloaded positions against the upper and lower rebound stops. You then need to check that the shocks have that amount of travel as a minimum - any shorter and you'll be taking the load through the shock rather than the stops which means you'll get some very strange handling just before you snap the shock.
Posted: Aug 18, 2014 09:37 AM